I love to try the entry level cuvees from top producers and, in the Cote d’Or, that usually means an Aligotè or Passetoutgrain. Domaine Robert Chevillon is one of my favorite estates. Located in Nuits-St.-Georges, Chevillon produces concentrated, meaty red wines that place it among the best domaines in all of Burgundy. There is also a little white wine produced at the estate including a rare Nuits-St.-Georges blanc. I was thrilled to find a less sought after bottling from Chevillon, a 2009 Bourgogne Aligotè. Although is it considered an inferior grape, Aligotè can produce wines that are lively and delicious. The Chevillon Aligotè is light and racy in the mouth, but it alsoshows the influence of oak that makes it seems dried out. Unfortunately, the wine is missing the freshness that make Aligotè wines appealing.
Another lesser known cuvee from Chevillon is their Bourgogne Passetoutgrain. A blend of Pinot Noir and Gamay, Passetoutgrain is traditionally made by wineries for their daily consumption. The wines are similar to Beaujolais in style, but they tend to be more reserved. The 2009 Chevillon Bourgogne Passetoutgrain example is a nice wine, but it is not as concentrated as I expected for the vintage. Aligotè and and Passetoutgrain from
Chevillon were o.k., but there are better examples of these types from other producers. Perhaps, the domaine tried too hard to make the wines in a serious style.