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Bernard Dugat is known for the rare and expensive red wines he bottles, but since the 2004 vintage there are also two vin blancs. A small plot of old vines (70+ years) was purchased in the Meursault lieu dit Le Village and in the Chassagne premiere cru Francemont, (labeled as Morgeot). The Meursault, VV, 2005 tasted last April was a classic example of the village. Very aromatic, this medium bodied wine finished with a serious ’shout out’ from the old vines. The minerality was piercing.

Much richer in its body and flavors, but not as aromatic, was the 2005, Chassagne-Montrachet, 1er Cru, Morgeot, tasted last July. Unlike the Meursault, which was defined by its minerality, the Chassagne was dominated by a creamy texture and lush feel in the mouth. Monsieur Dugat appears to have a great touch for whites, and it would be really interesting to see the domaine expand into some of the more prestigious terroirs of the Cote du Beaune. I would love to taste a Dugat-Py Batard-Montrachet.

 


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