Claude had brought some magnums of her Corton, Grand Cru, blanc, 2000 to the event and the rich wine showed very good balance. An elegant, refined Maison Leroy, Meursault, Narvaux, 1996 popped up out of nowhere and a trio of Chevilier-Montrachets from Doamaine Leflaive where passed around. The 2002 was brilliant, incredibly mineral and complex. The 1996 was richer and more powerful, but not as mineral as the 2002. The 1992 tasted like a combination of the previous two wines and seemed to be perfectly mature. Then, out of left field, a 1985 Vouvray was brought to the table from a producer named Jarry (Daniel?). I was not really interested in tasting anything other than Burgundy, but this was a terrific wine. There was no sign of oxidization and the wine still showed a little sweetness. Just in case I had not had enough Leflaive, a profound 2001 Batard-Montrachet jumped into my glass. Domaine L’Arlot brought three liter bottles of their Nuits-Saint-Georges, 1er Cru, Clos de L’Arlot, blanc from the 2000 vintage to the dinner and the powerful, red fruited wine was very good. A 1999 Roulut, Meursault, Tesson was oxidized and undrinkable. Remarkably, it would be the only oxidized wine of the night. Tasting old, but still very much alive was a very good 1989 Leflaive, Batard-Montrachet.
Towards the end of the evening, I decided to make my way down to the other end of the table to see if any Montrachet was sitting around. I did not find any Lafon, but there was a little Puligny-Montrachet, Les Enseigneres from Coche-Dury left in a bottle. That discovery led to the revelation that other tables might have some really good leftovers. The big collectors were all seated at a couple tables at the far end of the room and many of them had already left for the after party at Cru. Most of the bottles on the tables were empty, but, much to my surprise, I found a 1989 Raveneau, Chablis, grand cru, Les Clos 2/3 full. I guess Chablis is not good enough for some people. The wine was incredibly rich and concentrated, but not over the top. It did possess a lot of minerality, but it was incredible none the less. A third of a bottle of Coche-Dury, Corton Charlemagne, grand cru, 1990 sat all alone at the next table. In total contrast to the Raveneau, the Coche-Dury was very mineral. I was pretty much finished for the night until I spotted a magnum of Henri Jayer, Echezeaux, 1982 in front of a few gentlemen at the end of the table. Not feeling confident enough to approach the men, I went and found Eric Asimov. Upon hearing about the magnum, Eric agreed to investigate. Unfortunately, we were told that the wine was corked. I turned around to leave, but noticed that a young woman standing next to me was pouring a 1993 Domaine de la Romanee Conti, Montrachet. I pondered for a moment how to obtain a sip of the wine, but there did not appear to be smooth way of going about it. Since I could not think of any other options, I turned toward the women and said “Do you mind if I try some?” The young lady looked at me for a second, slightly perturbed, and poured a small amount of the wine into my glass. I ran away like a hyena who just stole a lion’s catch. The wine was lean and intensely mineral.