Raveneau is the greatest producer in Chablis, but Domaine William Fevre has quickly become the next best producer in the region. Many critics would put Vincent Dauvissat in that position, but I have found the wines from Fevre to be more exciting and profound. For a complete look at Domaine William Fevre, check out the Producer Profile page of this site. Despite my enthusiasm for this producer, I found the 2002 Les Clos from Fevre to be disappointing. My canine cousin, the Burghound, rated this wine 95 points and raved about its “purity of expression.” I have little doubt that the wine tasted like that when the Burghound reviewed it on October 1st, 2004, but it does not currently resemble that description.
I first tasted the 2002 Les Clos at La Paulee in March. The domaine brought magnums of the wine to the gala dinner, and I thought the wine seemed tired at the time. My first reaction was premature oxidation, but I was not 100% sure. My father opened a bottle of the wine for our Father’s Day dinner and it was similar to the one I tasted at La Paulee. The wine is rich and soft, but lacks complexity and grip. The flavors are mellow and the wine seems tired. I am not sure if the wine has simply not held up well or if there is a problem with premature oxidation, but it shows little resemblance to the profound 2005 and 2006 Fevre Les Clos that I have recently tasted.