I took a chance and bought the most expensive Montagny wine I had ever seen in a store. Neil Rosenthal imports Chateau de la Saule and his website claims it is the top producer in Montagny. I paid $27 for the estate’s basic, young vine cuvee from the 2006 vintage. The wine was fresh and elegant with green fruit flavors. While not as rich as the wines from other more prestigious white wine growing appellations, this Montagny was very refined. Chateau de la Saule, at 15 hectares, is the largest estate in Montagny. The domaine has been owned by the same family since 1805 and the current owner, Alain Roy, has been in charge since 1972. All the grapes are harvested by hand and most are fermented in steel tanks. A special single vineyard cuvee, Les Burnins, is made from 50 year old vines and raised entirely in barrel. The basic bottling is a blend of several premier cru vineyards and, although a little expensive at $27, is first class in quality.