I have had a really hard time keeping my hands off the 2006 white Burgundies that have found their way into my cellar. With the fear of premature oxidation hovering like an evil spirit, these newly born bottles have been drained without regret. It is generally accepted that white Burgundies need years in the bottle to reach maturity, but I not sure that I enjoy an aged example more than a young one. Older bottles often reveal layers of complexity that can only come with age, but unlike red Burgundies, which can be very tight in their youth, white Burgundies are often very accessible from the start. While young Bourgogne blancs do not possess the nutty complexity of a well aged example, they can offer a wonderful combination of fresh fruit flavors and minerality. I would love to hold onto a good Puligny and see what happens with time in the bottle, but I have no desire to dump these expensive wines down the drain in 10 years because they have turned into vinegar. Until the premature oxidation issue is fixed, I will be drinking my white Burgundies while they are young and fresh. The alternative of forgoing the pleasures of white Burgundy is not an option.
Needless to say, I had no problem pulling the cork on a 2006, Bachelet-Monnot, Puligny-Montrachet. The wine showed some new oak on the nose, but it was integrated on the palate. The flavors leaned towards tropical, but this is typical of the wines made in this warm vintage. Bachelet-Monnot is a new domaine (2005 was the first vintage) that is producing excellent, full-flavored wines. The village Puligny is a blend of four different AOC vineyards and certainly delivers for the price ($60 full retail).