Soft shell crabs were once again on the menu as the main course, but for the first time in over a year (due to my wife’s pregnancy) we began the meal with a round of Blue Point and Sewansecott oysters. A bottle of Maison Lilbert-Fils, Champagne, a Cramant, Grand Cru, blanc de blancs, NV was opened to wash down the oysters. Lilbert is one of the few producers to bottle a wine from 100% Cramant fruit, which is one of the great sources in Champagne for chardonnay. The style of the wines produced by Lilbert is always very elegant and classy, but I find them somewhat dull. The NV was indeed elegant, but it was a little lacking in flavor. Nonetheless, the wine was a good pairing with the oysters.
Next up was a bottle of Vincent Dancer, Meursault, Les Grands Charrons, 2006. I discussed my March visit to Dancer in a previous blog (see March ‘08), but this was the first time I had cracked open a bottle. The wine revealed a good wiff of oak on the nose, but it was more subdued on the palate. Tropical fruits were the primary flavor, but the wine finished with a nice minerality. The texture (which seems to be similar in all Dancer’s wines) was smooth and elegant. Despite being ripe and rich, the wine did not come across as sweet or heavy. The warm weather in 2006 obviously contributed to the tropical flavors, but Monsieur Dancer was able to keep the wine balanced and fresh. This bottle only confirmed my initial impressions from my visit to the domaine. Vincent Dancer is a true artist who produces beautifully style wines.