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Cecile Tremblay recently relocated her winery to Vosne-Romanee after a short stay in Gevrey-Chambertin. For several years, Cecile had shared a facility with Pascal Roblet in Bligny-les-Beaune, but she seemed destined to end up in Vosne. Domaine Cecile Tremblay has several holdings in the village and one in nearby Chambolle-Musingy. Cecile is relative of the late Henri Jayer, himself a native of Vosne, and several writers have noted that her winemaking style is reminiscent of his. The wines are fragrant and intensely flavored like those made by Jayer, but they are not as intensely oaky in their youth. I visited Cecile Tremblay’s cellar in Blagny-les-Beaune twice and was blown away on both occasions. Out of barrel the wines are incredibly seductive. The bottles that I have opened in the U.S. have been excellent, but were too young to reveal the promise that they showed in the cellar. The first vintage bottled under the Tremblay label was 2002, so it impossible to taste a perfectly mature bottle made by this producer. I have sampled selections from the estate’s portfolio every vintage since 2003. Unfortunately, I missed out on the 2002s. I did find a bottle of the Vosne-Romanee village from that vintage while in Paris, but it exploded during the flight home.

The estate owns two holdings north of Chambolle, one in the grand cru Chapelle-Chambertin and the other in Morey-Saint-Denis. Tres Girard, which borders the R.N. 74, is fairly flat and an unspectacular village level lieu-dit. Cecile’s vines in this site are relatively young at 30 years of age, but her bottling can be beautiful. The wine is not as rich or complex as the other cuvees her collection, but it shows the touch of a great winemaker. 2003 is not proving to be my favorite vintage in Burgundy, as many of the wines show roasted fruit flavors that I do not enjoy. The 2003 Cecile Tremblay, Morey-Saint-Denis, Tres Girard is an excellent wine, but it does reflect the vintage. While not roasted, the fruit is very dark and the wine has a slightly rustic texture. Many of the 2003 were very ripe and enjoyable when young, but I fear that the negative effects of the vintage will become more apparent as they age. I liked this wine, but not as much as other vintages.

 


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