I first tasted the 2002 Les Champans from Jopeph Voillot at the restaurant situated directly across the street from the domaine’s cellar in Volnay. It was two years following the harvest and the wine had an intense core of sweet fruit. Curious to see how the wine is evolving, I opened a bottle from my cellar. The nose is beginning to show mature notes, but it is still in an adolescent stage. In the mouth, the sweetness of the fruit is fading and moving towards the sour end of the spectrum. I believe that the wine will evolve into an outstanding wine, but it is currently at an awkward place.
Claude Dugat and his cousin Bernard Dugat (Domaine Dugat-Py) produce some of the rarest and most expensive wines in Burgundy. Their wines receive high scores from the critics and are praised for their concentration. While similar, Claude’s wines are slightly more approachable than those made by Bernard. The wines show more upfront fruit and have softer textures. I recently picked-up a 2000 Gevrey-Chambertin from Claude at a relatively cheap price ($36.99) from a retailer in NJ. The 2006 version of this cuvee goes for $120+. Dark in color, the wine has a restrained nose of dark fruits and full-bodied on the palate. Although still young, secondary flavors are beginning to emerge. A unique, singular quality comes through with this wine that distinguishes it from other village wines made in Gevrey.